Wednesday, December 9, 2009
The header band has a warp of 57" - Yep...I went ahead and went for width. I think it was because I was reading on a website about the limitations of fabric width and how that effected how they made their clothes in early period. Umm. Yeah right!
So I am sure that I will have some drawing in...I am guessing that the finished product may be about 54 across...more than enough :)
I measured on the warping board and I should also have about 4 yards in length...I hope. We'll see how that goes.
I have decided to use water bottles for weights this time around for a couple of reasons:
1-They are a uniform weight
2-They are cheap
3-I don't have to make them
4-I need quite a few of them since this warp is wider and 700 threads
I sewed the warp to the beam last night and then separated the sheds for tabby. I just need to weight the threads and tie 350 heddles and I should be up and running!!
Total hours = 15 or so
Friday, December 4, 2009
As far as the next piece. I have around 480 threads woven into the header band and I'm going to keep going for a bit more. We'll see how many threads I end up with since using the header band keeps the threads much farther spaced apart then when I tied them on the beam and then chained the spacer chain. The fabric that produced is a little warp heavy. I think that the header band will make it so my fabric is a more even tabby, which is of course the goal :) I'll also post pics of that process soon.
The hubby is making a new header beam for the loom because after the test run it was determined that something thicker was needed so that it didn't bend under the weight of all the weaving and weights. I hope to have the loom re-warped before Wednesday of next week.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Rough hour count: 6 so far
Monday, November 23, 2009
While I'm waiting I have started the warping process for the next piece. I've decided that It's going to be wider so that I can make more things out of it. So far I have warped my inkle loom with 11 cards...why 11? I miscounted :) I wanted 10, but 11 is fine too. I have it all warped and have woven a couple of inches. I figure I will weave a few more inches and then start weaving in the warp threads using a borrowed warping board (which the hubby will have copied before you leave I promise!) so that the warp will start out at roughly 5 yards. I have decided that I'm going to bundle the warp threads in bundles of 30 to make it easier to move to the loom. This next piece is made of the same mystery fiber as the the first one (I think it's acrylic from the burn test I did) but a pretty mauve-like shade. This piece will also be tabby until I have a chance to do the proper loom modifications to do other weaves. Since I need to have the loom up and running by the 12th of December - I'm guessing that will be sometime after Winter A&S in January since I will probably be working on this next piece for the next 6 weeks or so due to all the Holidays.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
I want to drill one more set of holes to be able to move the heddle bar down just a little bit further. Once this is done, I think I will be able to weave a little past the 3 yard mark so that I can compensate for the first couple inches of the piece that are a little rough.
Once I have gone as far as I can - it's time to take it off the loom. For some reason this makes me nervous - makes no sense, but I always feel this way towards the end of a project.
I am going to wet finish the piece in the bathtub...maybe with a little soaps...maybe not...I'll see how it feels, and then let it air dry.
Saturday, October 24, 2009
I'm ready to have this off the loom for many reasons...
1 - I want to make things with the fabric (ok this one is obvious)
2 - I want to get started on the next piece so it's ready for people to use at the Novice Faire at Yule.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
1 - It shows the pin-beater in action (BTW - I totally copied her pin-beater on a string...makes it easier). She is "scalloping" the weft thread into place.
2- If you look at the fabric right below header beam, you can see that it is kind of wavy. This has been happening on my piece as well. As far as I can tell - it's from the weight bundles. It makes sense and it makes me feel better to see it on someone else's work also.
Something else I noticed...it seems that I get a line in the weaving every time I release the weights and roll-up. It annoys me, but I think that it will work itself out "in the wash" when I wet finish the fabric...
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Monday, September 14, 2009
Sunday, September 13, 2009
I decided that I would chain up the extra warp before I added the weights...I was trying new things...I don't like it because it puts strain on some warp threads and not on others. Not enough for me to undo it now, but when it's time to roll up again in a couple of days I'll try something different again.
The weave is also getting a bit more even as I get the hang of it! Yeah!!
I'll post pics again when I hit the two yard mark...
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Friday, September 11, 2009
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
1-It's hard to make sure your edges are even when you are looking up.
You can see where I spent a lot of time on the ladder = even selvege edge
You can see where I was able to easily the edges = even selvege edge
However, there is a section between these two that is not 100% perfect. I got it a little too tight on the left side. It bugs me, but not enough to un-weave it. I just need to remember it for next time. I refuse to stress about this piece because it's a learning piece. If I was entering this weaving in a competition that would be a different story. However, I already have a whole list of things that I want to make from it, so I'm not that worried. Can you tell?
Who will see the uneven edges when it's been cut up and made into things? :)
2-Don't strum the loom too hard...the warp threads don't like it...
Monday, September 7, 2009
I re-did the front warp chain with a single thread vs. the first time where I used double and this seems to have helped with not missing picks since the threads are more evenly spaced...or this could all be in my head...
The "struming" of the loom is very important. I used the sword beater, or my hand, and strum the warp threads like playing a stringed instrument. This makes all the threads that have stuck to their neighbor let go and greatly reduces the amount of picks missed.
Having a toddler running around and asking questions makes it even more challenging. I can't help but wonder what they did for this...
I'll post pictures of progress in the next couple days...
Sunday, September 6, 2009
The conversation worked like this...
Me - "Honey I want you to try weaving on the loom..."
Him - "What? Why? I don't want to mess it up!"
Me - "You won't mess it up - I'll be standing right here..."
Him - "Why do you want me to do this?"
Me - "Because I want everyone to have a better understanding and appreciation for how much work went into making cloth..."
Him - "Ok"
He tried it :)
His words were "This takes a lot more work and time than I thought..."
Yep. And that Ladies and Gentlemen is why I want anyone who would like to - to be able to give it a try....
So now I am really hoping that I can finish weaving the piece on the loom by the end of the month.
Thursday, September 3, 2009
It took some messing around with the tension still and I learned a number of things....
1-The headerband is much more important that I previously thought...I could have saved myself a lot of work had just done one :O)
2-The heddles I knitted got progressively smaller as I worked (they looked the same when looking down them, but when I stood on a step ladder and looked down I could see what happened. I'm thinking about doing individual ones next time. I think because the heddles get progressively smaller it makes the top of the weaving uneven. I will have to see as I continue whether this problem rights itself or I need to adjust the heddles.
I am using a light taupe colored weft so I can clearly see what is happening :)
From this distance it looks light blue.
Since he is still in diapers I elected to make him one long tunic that I will belt. He can wear some light-weight shorts underneath over his diaper and will still look period in that his age group wouldn't be wearing pants anyway :)
Perhaps I need to barter with a person that likes working with clay more than I.
The spacer chain that I added to help it stop being so warp faced.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
First - I knew that the fabric was going to be warp faced....It's tabby on a warp weighted loom - I don't know how to warp it to be anything but warp faced right now. I need to ask some people a lot of questions...
Second - Since it is warp faced it is going to be much narrower than it looks as a warp...
third - I needed more weight because the sheds were not working well and they were taking forever to separate out...
Some things that I am now mulling over:
When I warped the loom, I decided to just do a simple tabby. In my mind the tabby would be warp faced (that was how the mechanics worked in my mind anyway). This of course makes a smaller piece of fabric. The questions I have are:
1. How do I weave even tabby? Is it possible on a warp weighted loom?
I have also seem pics online of weft faced tabby weaving on a warp weighted loom and I can't seem to wrap my head around how that happens...
2. Heddles seem to move around a lot - need to try somethings to fix this...
3. Right now I am using a ball for the weft, but I am wondering if there were any preferred shuttles...
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
I will post pics soon...it isn't pretty, but it's weaving...
Step one - Fill a small shuttle with thread that you want to use to make heddles. I used a contrasting thread to make it easier to see. Starting on the left side of the loom, tie the end to the heddle rod.
Step two - To make it easier, you or a helper should bring the back threads between the front threads so that they are easier to reach. We used a glave to hold them forward.
Step three - Pass the shuttle under the heddle rod, around the thread (left to right), over the top of the heddle rod.
At this point it gets a little more complicated.
Step four - While holding the shuttle in you right hand, grab the loop that has formed around the heddle rod with your left. Twist the loop towards you so that the loop is made into a figure eight shape. Then pass the shuttle through the part of the eight that is closest to you (again from left to right). This will tie a kind of slip knot.
Step five - Adjust the tension and the heddle (loop) size.
Congrats - you have knitted one heddle...
The hardest part is keeping all the heddles relatively the same size. I have a few ideas on how I will do this in the future...but I need to test them out.
The next time I have someone around that can take pictures of my hands I will take a picture of each step...
Monday, August 31, 2009
See the glave in the picture...that was to hold the shed once it was separated - made it much easier to knit the heddles. Would have been even better had I had another piece of closet rod, but I didn't.
This is a close up of the above shot...
Almost finished doing it...wrong :)
Up close of almost done...wrong...
Picture done the write way. Notice how you can see a lot more green and the threads are much further away from the heddle bar.
This is what the spacing and loom looks like when all the heddles are knit.
A closer look...
This is the natural shed that happens when the heddle bar in resting in the brackets. I'm holding it open with my sword beater, but you can see all the heddles and how they work.
This is the second shed that is formed when the heddle bar is moved back so that it rests against the uprights.
Now the loom is all set to do so simple tabby weave....we'll see how simple it really is :)
Sunday, August 30, 2009
How it compares to my current warp.
Friday, August 28, 2009
A little bit closer view...
Greet between the front and back threads.
She is feeding the threads down to me so that I can then chain them.
This is one of the things that really helped make it go much faster!! :)
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Finished finger chaining...
Getting closer to having the back row completed...
Back row complete...
Full length view of the back row with weights...
Sword beaters are as hard to find concrete info about as is everything that was made of wood from that time period. The one surviving example that I could find is posted earlier in the this blog and is made of whale bone. It measures at around 15inches. However, since we know that looms came in varying sizes, some of them quite large, it is hard to imagine using a 15inch sword beater on such a loom. After discussion and examination of pictures of what others are using, it was decided that a sword beater around two feet in length would be a good size to start with.